The results of my mishima tests are in and I would call them successful. I’m happiest with tests 1A and 2A which used the Bailey stain of frit 3124 and Pearl Grey mason stain but I’ve got some ideas going forward for a second, more extensive round of testing. What I liked most about those two tests was how glassy the the lines became.
Along with the mishima experiments I also decided to test commercial two underglazes [Pearl Grey and Dark Grey] to see how they would behave with the tape cast clay. I thought that if they were successful I may be able to mix my own “perfect” shade of light grey but unfortunately the underglaze still did not want to stick. On the bright side, it was more vitreous than my own recipe and may still work when its embedded into etchings.
Going forward I have a pretty extensive list of things I would like to test on the “More Vitreous” body:
-Retesting the underglaze & stain wash above, as is
-A wash of Frit 3124 alone in the etchings to see how well it highlights the etchings
-Mixing the frit thicker so that it distributes more evenly in the etch lines
-Remixing the underglaze with more frit and less clay to see if it fuses better
-Coating the clay with wax before etching/cutting
-Layering the grey and white slip so that the etching expose the grey beneath without the need for a glazing technique
-Try staining after firing and then re-fire
-Try wiping commercial underglaze into the etch lines
-The underglaze was very crisp and detailed, and it picked up great line quality but it was too dry to properly stick to the surface. I’m hoping that by fixing the clay recipe to be more vitreous that issue may be solved.
-Even though I wiped the surfaces od the tiles as well as I could, the mason stain still tinted the clay around the etch lines. I think that by waxing he surface prior to cutting I can keep it cleaner and eliminate the dirty haze
aka Daniel Aktas
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